and François Moutet2
(1)
Marseille, France
(2)
Grenoble, France
Photo 1.1
Rock climbing is a new sport which keeps developing. The increasing number of climbers in climbing facilities accounts for that phenomenon.
This enthusiasm has led to an increase in hand injuries – the hand being obviously the most exposed part of the body in climbing and consequently the most fragile.
Fingers are not supposed to be used so harshly and roughly. The intensive repetition of specific tough movements may lead to progressive or sudden traumas or microtraumas on the different structures of the hand.
According to Salomon and Vigier (1989), “climbing is a quadruped activity whose aim is to reach the top of a more or less vertical and various support or the end of the route, moving up and using only the available holds on the support, all that in a safe way.”
In all categories – bouldering and difficulties – whether on sight or after work, performances keep rising. In 1980, Patrick Edlinger was successful – 7B+ − on his first try at “La polka des Ringards” in Buoux.
Nowadays, 8c is currently achieved by men. Climbers don’t hesitate to go around the world in order to find or try new routes especially the most extreme ones.
These performances put fingers under a constant and intensive strain which sometimes leads to inadequate climbing habits such as the lack of stretching or warming up.
The quest for performance implies taking risks. But those risks may be reduced if the sportsman learns how to be careful and changes some of their habits. Indeed, the only way to lower the occurrence potential injuries is to be well informed and get into good habits.